Hiking journal: Trolltunga Adventures Winter hike 6th of April 2024
The winter and spring offer a unique chance to visit Trolltunga amidst endless snowy white landscapes. Muted footsteps echo in the quiet mountains, with clouds drifting in and out, and the sun breaking through intermittently.
On Saturday, the 6th of April, we began the hike from Skjeggedal (P2) at 8 am. The group appeared eager and excited to start. We quickly checked everyone's equipment to ensure they had the necessary gear for the demanding hike ahead, especially in winter when waterproof shoes, sufficient water, and warm waterproof clothing are essential.
The hike begins with an admittedly challenging 4-kilometer ascent to Mågelitopp, where we've already climbed the first 400 meters. This section offers stunning views down the valley towards Tyssedal and the 8.5-kilometer-long lake, "Ringedalsvatnet," which accompanies us along the hike and remains visible from Trolltunga. The lake is dammed up, with an impressive 300-meter-long dam. Initially open, it becomes covered with ice later on.
On the way up to the majestic mountains of Trolltunga
We bid farewell to the green pines, the rushing water, and the last remnants of civilization, represented by scattered cottages, as we ascend upwards, leaving normal life behind for the day. Just before the final steep uphill section, we hear the distinctive guttural sounds of the grouse, a mountain bird often found feeding in this area. To our surprise, we have a close encounter with one, sitting just 10 meters away, likely a mother protecting her chicks.
Ascending the steep passage of "Gryteskar," the sun shines directly in our faces, illuminating the expanding landscape behind us. On clear days, the view towards Folgefonna National Park and its glacier is spectacular. We celebrate our ascent with well-deserved chocolate and cookies, enjoying a moment of pure mountain joy on a sunlit rock.
From this point onward, locals affectionately refer to the hike as a "Norwegian flat," as the trail undulates gently, traversing the cliff's edge towards Trolltunga. Ahead lies the awe-inspiring plateau of Hardangervidda, Norway's largest national park, a vast expanse of untamed wilderness.
The grouse, a mountain bird often found feeding in the Trolltunga area.
Time seems to slip away as we chat, snack, and hike, pausing intermittently to admire panoramic views of Ringedalsvatnet and the valley below. The hiking signs dutifully countdown the distance to Trolltunga, guiding our progress.
As we round the first rescue hut, clouds gather overhead, enhancing the dramatic scenery. The forecasted rain looms, urging us onward to reach Trolltunga before the clouds obscure the view entirely. Fortunately, we arrive just in time to marvel at the imposing rock formation before the rain descends.
Trolltunga in winter is a sight to behold, cloaked in snow and ice, resembling a monochrome world punctuated only by patches of azure sky. Yet, the allure of the snow can be deceptive, and the precipitous cliff's edge demands caution.
After basking in our accomplishment, we begin our return journey, fortified by obligatory cream-topped hot chocolate and classic sandwiches. Seeking refuge from the rain, we settle into the nearby rescue hut near Trolltunga.
Though technically only halfway through the hike, the return leg seems to pass quicker, perhaps a romanticized notion, but there's something meditative about hiking in the rain. Amidst the tranquil landscape, thoughts flow freely as time slows to a steady rhythm.
Lunch from local restaurant “Ferskvaren”
Hot Chocolate with cream and a snow covered Trolltunga in the background.
By 4:30 pm, we commence our descent, greeted by the familiar embrace of green spruce and pine trees lining the path. The hard-packed snow, softened by rain, offers an exhilarating slide down the steepest sections.
Arriving back at the Skjeggedal parking lot (P2) by 5:30 pm, we are exhausted yet elated, drenched but content, having savored every moment the mountain had to offer.
Photo & text by our guide Solvej Baggesen